MCBs

Miniature circuit breakers (MCBs) are fitted in newer consumer units in place of fuses. They automatically cut off the supply of electricity if a circuit is overloaded. They have the advantage that they can be manually reset without having to replace wire as in the case of the traditional fuse. The MCBs have either a button or lever that can be flicked to reset it. They are used instead of fuses due to their convenience and improved safety features.

RCDs

RCDs (Residual Current Devices) are designed to help prevent electric shock and other accidents due to faulty electrical appliances or wiring. An RCD can detect changes in the proper flow of electric current: when a flex or cable is cut, for instance, or an electrical appliance malfunctions. Within milliseconds of this happening, the RCD automatically disconnects the power supply to the equipment before you can be electrocuted or further damage can be done.

RCBOs

An RCBO is a single device which combines the functions of an MCB (over-current and short-circuit protection) and an RCD (Earth fault protection).

MCBs, RCDs and RCBOs Explained

An RCD, or residual current device, is a life-saving device which is designed to prevent you from getting a fatal electric shock if you touch something live, such as a bare wire. It can also provide some protection against electrical fires. RCDs offer a level of personal protection that ordinary fuses and circuit-breakers cannot provide.

What does an RCD do?

An RCD is a sensitive safety device that switches off electricity automatically if there is a fault.

An RCD is designed to protect against the risks of electrocution and fire caused by earth faults.  For example, if you cut through the cable when mowing the lawn and accidentally touched the exposed live wires or a faulty appliance overheats causing electric current to flow to earth.

How does it work?

An RCD constantly monitors the electric current flowing through one or more circuits it is used to protect. If it detects electricity flowing down an unintended path, such as through a person who has touched a live part, the RCD will switch the circuit off very quickly, significantly reducing the risk of death or serious injury.

What are the main types of RCD?

RCDs can help protect you from electric shock in potentially dangerous areas like bathrooms and gardens, and there are various types of RCDs that can be used to make sure you are always as safe as possible.

Fixed RCDs

These are installed in the consumer unit (fusebox) and can provide protection to individual or groups of circuits. A fixed RCD provides the highest level of protection as it protects all the wiring and the sockets on a circuit, and any connected appliances.

Socket-Outlet RCDs

These are special socket-outlets with an RCD built into them which can be used in place of a standard socket-outlet. This type of RCD provides protection only to the person in contact with equipment, including its lead, plugged into the special socket-outlet.

Portable RCDs

These plug into any standard socket-outlet. An appliance can then be plugged into the RCD. They are useful when neither fixed nor socket-outlet RCDs are available but, as with socket-outlet RCDs, they provide protection only to the person in contact with the equipment, including its lead, plugged into the portable RCD.

Are RCDs reliable?

We’ve found that fixed RCDs are about 97% reliable. This improves if they are tested regularly. If you have fixed RCD protection, it will reduce the risk of electric shock to you and your family. It can also protect your home against the risk of fire caused by faulty wiring or appliances.

Remember – Although RCD protection reduces the risk of death or injury from electric shock it does not reduce the need to be careful. Have your wiring checked at least once every 10 years to ensure the safety of you, your family and your home. If you find a fault with your wiring, or an appliance, stop using it immediately and contact a registered electrician.

Don’t forget to test – You should test all fixed and socket RCDs about every three months. Manufacturers recommend that portable RCDs are tested every time you use them.

Beware – If you hold the test button in for a long time and the RCD does not switch off the electricity supply, then get advice from a  registered electrician.

The UK standard for safety – Since July 2008 virtually all circuits in new or rewired homes have been required to include an RCD under the latest edition of BS 7671.

How much will RCD protection cost?

A plug-in RCD can cost as little as £10. A fixed RCD will cost more, but will provide a greater degree of protection to help keep your family safe. Installation costs will vary, so we recommend getting several quotes before proceeding.

How do I check whether I already have fixed RCD protection?

To check if you have fixed RCD protection, go to your consumer unit and have a look to see if there is a device with a pushbutton marked ‘T’ or ‘Test’. This ‘test’ button is part of an RCD. If an RCD is fitted, there should also be a label on or near the consumer unit stating ‘test quarterly’.

Portable appliance testing or PAT Testing is the process of checking electrical appliances for safety through a series of visual inspections and electronic tests.

Why do I need to have my appliances tested?

The best way of ensuring that your appliances are safe is to have a PAT test carried out on them. This is a good way for landlords to ensure that they are meeting their legal obligations to maintain high standards of electrical safety in their rented property.

What does it involve?

To establish the safety and suitability of your electrical appliances, the competent person will carry out a visual inspection of the appliance, its plug and lead. For Class I[1] equipment they will also inject test signals into the cable and appliance to ensure their integrity.

Who should do the work?

Electrical work must only be carried out by people who have the necessary knowledge, skill and experience needed to avoid danger to themselves and others.

Many registered electricians will carry out portable appliance testing. You can find a registered electrician here.

What will I receive?

Upon completion of the inspection and testing you should receive a report that details the following as a minimum:

• An inventory containing each appliance type, name, location and description
• A full set of test results for each appliance tested
• A full list of any failed items with an explanation of their failure
• A visible pass or fail label on each appliance detailing the inspection date, next test due and the inspector’s signature.

If you are not technically aware, then the contractor/ competent person who carried out the inspection and testing should be happy to talk through your report with you and advise you of any further action required.

As energy prices continue to rise, our simple tips will help you to keep the bills down.

Energy Saving Light Bulbs – A bright idea

They last up to 10 times longer than traditional bulbs, and use around 80% less energy. An energy-saving light bulb produces the same amount of light at 13-18w as the more traditional 60w bulb. This reduces energy costs and saves you up to £60 over the lifetime of the light bulb.

Stand-by – Switching off is being switched on

You can reduce your electricity bill and avoid emitting CO2, simply by not leaving your electrical products on stand-by. Switch them off and unplug them when not in use.

Washing Machines – Be cool

90% of the energy a washing machine uses goes towards heating the water. A 30°C wash could save over a third of the energy you use when compared to washing at higher temperatures.

Tumble Dryers – Fully loaded

When using your dryer, ensure that it is full, but don’t overload. Tumble dryers consume more energy than most washing machines. In fact, it’s much cheaper and better for the environment to use a washing line or a clothes horse if you can. If you do need to use a tumble dryer, make sure you use a fast spin on your washing, as this removes more of the water.

Dishwashers – The fuller the better

Only use your dishwasher when you have a full load as a half load uses the same amount of energy. If possible, stop the dishwasher’s cycle when it gets to the drying stage, open it up, and let the load dry naturally.

Kettles – A cup is better than a kettle-full

Only put in the amount of water you need, as over-filling each time wastes energy and money.

Buying a new fridge/freezer?

Look for the Energy Saving Recommended logo. These more efficient appliances could save you as much as £37 a year.

What is Part P of the building regulations?

Building Regulations in England

Since 2005, all electrical work in dwellings in England and Wales whether carried out professionally or as DIY, and whether or not the work is notifiable to a building control body (see below), must meet the requirements of Part P of the Building Regulations. In April 2013 the requirements for England were amended.

Compliance with Part P is intended to keep you and your family as safe as possible from electrical hazards.

The requirements of Part P apply to new dwellings and to any alterations or additions to the electrical installations of existing dwellings, including full or partial rewires.

Part P states that anyone carrying out electrical work in a dwelling must ensure that reasonable provision has been made in the design and installation of the electrical installations in order to protect any persons who might use, maintain or alter the electrical installation of that dwelling from fire and injury, including electric shock.

Who is responsible for making sure that electrical work in your home meets the requirements of Part P?

By law, the homeowner or landlord must be able to prove that all electrical installation work meets Part P, or they will be committing a criminal offence.

Local authorities have the power to make homeowners or landlords remove or alter any work that does not meet the requirements of the Building Regulations.

What electrical work is notifiable?

From April 2013 electrical work in a dwelling, or associated with its surroundings, is notifiable to a local building control body where the work includes:

•    the installation of a new circuit, whether at low voltage (typically 230 V) or extra-low voltage); or
•    the replacement of a consumer unit (fusebox); or
•    any alteration or addition to an existing circuit in a special location*, whether at low voltage (typically 230 V) or extra-low voltage

*A special location is a room containing a bath or shower, swimming pool or a sauna heater.

An alteration or addition to an existing circuit in a room containing a bath or shower is notifiable only where carried out in the space surrounding a bath or shower.

An alteration or addition anywhere within a room containing a swimming pool or sauna heater is notifiable.

What do I need to do before electrical installation work can be carried out in my home?

You must first check whether the work is notifiable. If it is then you must either;

•    employ an electrician who is registered with one of the Government-approved scheme providers; or tell (‘notify’) your local-authority building-control about the installation work before work begins.

From April 2014 you will also be able to employ a non-registered electrical installer who has appointed a registered third party certifier to carry out the required inspection and testing of the work both during and on completion.

The benefits of using a registered electrician

We strongly recommend that you use a registered electrician to do any electrical work in or around your home. If you use a registered electrician, you can expect to have safe electrical installation work done, as the work should meet the UK national standard, BS 7671 (Requirements for Electrical Installations). You will not have to deal with building control directly and when the work is finished you should receive:

•    an Electrical Installation Certificate or, where applicable, a Minor Electrical Installation Works Certificate that confirms the work meets BS 7671; and

•    a Building Regulations Compliance Certificate that confirms the work meets the Building Regulations.

If the work carried out by the registered electrician doesn’t meet the requirements of the Building Regulations, you will have access to a formal complaints procedure.
You can also choose to take out an insurance-backed guarantee when you have the work done, and, if the work is later found not to meet Building Regulations, you can make a claim.

What if I don’t use a registered electrician?

If you use an installer who is not a registered competent person, he or she must notify the registered third-party certifier within five (5) days of completing the work.  The registered third-party certifier will then, subject to the results of the inspection and testing being satisfactory, complete either an Electrical Installation Condition Report (based on the model shown in BS 7671) or one that has been specifically developed for the purposes of Part P and give it to the person ordering the work.

A fusebox, now more commonly known as a consumer unit, should be easy to find and is where the electricity in your home is controlled and distributed.

It’s important that you know where your fusebox is in case you ever need to turn the electricity off in an emergency. It contains three things – the main switch, fuses and/or circuit breakers, and Residual Current Devices.

A) Main Switch – this allows you to turn off the electricity supply to your home. You might have more than one mains switch, for example if your home has electric storage heaters. In this case you may have a separate fusebox.

B) Residual Current Devices (RCD) these are switches that trip a circuit under dangerous conditions, and instantly disconnect the electricity.

For more on RCDs please click here.

C) Circuit Breakers – these are automatic protection devices in the fusebox that switch off a circuit if they detect a fault. They are similar in size to fuses, but give more precise protection. When they ‘trip’, you can simply reset the switch. But make sure you correct the fault first.

Fuses  (may be found in place of circuit breakers) –rewirable fuses have a piece of special fuse wire running between two screws. When a fault or overload current flows through the fuse wire, it will become hot and melt. The melted fuse breaks the circuit, disconnecting the faulty circuit and keeping you safe.

If your fusebox has a wooden back, cast iron switches, or a mixture of fuses it is likely that it dates back to before the 1960s and will need to be replaced.

Fuseboxes explained